Moss temple

When I stepped in, it was the world of green. Everything seemed green to me.
The garden of Moss temple was designed by the famous garden designer, Muso Soseki, who also designed the garden of Tenryuji temple. But in those days, the garden was totally different from the current one. It has a pond with islands in its center. The garden didn't have moss on the ground. Instead, it had cherry trees and a pavilion like the one in Ginkakuji temple.

The founder of Ginkakuji temple, the third shogun, Yoshimasa, really loved the garden of Saihoji temple ( moss temple ), He used to say it was like a pureland in paradise. He frequently visited the garden and enjoy the scenery from the boat on the pond or the view from upstairs of the pavilion. We can imagine how beautiful it was and how colorful it was.

However, the history was getting to engulf such a beautiful garden and the pureland had gone.
The war of Onin　（1467-1478） destroyed the city of Kyoto, and most of the temples were burnt down. Saihoji was no exception. The beautiful sight had disappeared and the garden was devastated Such devastation had remained for a certain period.

The temple had no longer any visitors...
Only the visitor was "moss"
Little by little,  little by little, moss spread over the ground,  came to cover the ground and created such a beautiful green world by taking  a long long period of time.

When you are in the garden, the garden seems to be a large scale oｆ a living matter and you are sure to feel you are a part of it. The air  refreshes you and enable you to be something different.

Moss Temple  ( Saiho-ji )

To visit there, you are required to make a reservation by reply-paid card  in advance.

admission : 3000 yen
condition  : participation in Buddhist sutra writing


access : Kyoto bus ( not Kyoto city bus)
bus stop ; Kokedera mae

Nandaimon gate is borrowed to the garden

I usually recommend our guests to see some gardens in Kyoto. Our city, Kyoto,  has zen gardens consisting of rocks and sand, as well as stroll-style gardens. However, when it comes to Nara, I usually think of the magnificent architectures and buddha or Kannon images. When I visited Isuien garden in Nara, I thought I was all abroad.

Isuien garden is devided into two parts, the front garden and  the rear garden. Originally the front garden was made in 1670 and the other one, in 19th century. The garden which impressed me a lot is the rear garden.
Japanese garden is designed taking the backdrop and its affect on the garden into consideration. We usually call this kind of gardens a borrowed garden. Isuien borrows the top of Nandaimon gate of Todaiji temple and Wakakusa mountain hehind of the temple and another mountain behind it.These backdrops harmonize beautifully with the original garden.
You will surely be impressed by this borrowed garden we can't see in Kyoto.

In addition to this beautiful garden, if you want, you can have Japanese tea viewing the garden, as well as having lunch. It's near Todaiji temple. Why don't you visit here if you  visit Nara?

Isuien garden ; opens from 9:30AM to 4PM

admission     ;  650 yen

Closed  : every Tuesday and year end and New year days

Lunch   ; Mugimeshi tororo  1800yen     Una toro  2800 yen

Tour date ; Sep. 1st, 2011

Tour ; Kasuga shrine, Nigatsudo hall, Todaiji temple, Nandaimon  gate, Isuien
Guest : a man from Spain

The window of enlightment ( Genkoan temple)

They are just windows, but the very windows.
It may sound a little strange. Sometimes something shows us a spefic meaning.
I think that's it.
.


 When you enter the main hall of Genkoan temple, you will find two windows there.One is square and the other is round. The square one is called "The window of hesitation." and the round one " The window of enlightment" Do you know why they are called so?
Imagine the shape of square. It has corners. When the corner hits or touches something, it will make a scrach or a flaw. If you have something sharp or pointed in your mind, it easily makes someone's heart get hurt, or causes the world around you to make some troubles. However, if it is round, when it hits something, it won't make any flaws or troubles. The two windows tell us to have a heart like a round window



Please look upward in that hall, and you will see a ceiling with some steins. What are they? How did it get them?
It is blood... Look carefully, and you will find some footprints or handprints on it. It used to be floor board of Fushimi castle about 400 years ago. The days were going to see another big civil war to decide the next ruler. Ieyasu ( the first Shogun of Tokugawa Shogunate) and Mitsunari ( the first aid of the former ruler Hideyoshi) were going to start the war. The war took place in Sekigahara. Fushimi castle was in the west of Sekigahara ( in the teritory of Mitsunari army),
The surbordenate warlord of Ieyasu, Mototada Torii,  had to stay in the castle to protect the castle from Mitsunari.  Ieyasu offered him to leave more worriors for him to help after Ieyasu left there . However, the warlord ( Mototada Torii ) cordially delined Ieyasu's offer, saying "No more unnecessary deaths". He knew he was going to die.
They drank some sake togather and spent a quiet time for farewell . Mototada and a small number of worriors bravely fought against Mitsunari army which consisted of 40,000 worriors. The fight was supposed to end in a few days but, in fact , it lasted for more than 10 days. The protest by Mototada troop against Mitsunari army was so strong that Mitsunari army could not help taking far more time than they had expected to end this fight.                                                                                              
Motodata and his followers killed themselves at the last moment, and their bodies were left there for a while.  The floor board was divided into several parts and now they are used as a ceiling in several temples so that the monks in those temples and we can  pray for the departed souls.

The other temples which have such ceilings are Hosen-in temple in Ohara, Yogenin temple, Shodenji temple, Koshoji temple, Shin-oji temple, Tenkyuin temple in Myoshinji temple, and Eishunji temple. The Famous ones are Genkoan, Hosenin temple and Yogenin temple. Actually, on the board at the moment in our history,  there were worriors who fought for Ieyasu by sacrificing their lives.

The garden in Genko-an temple

Genko-an
admission ; 400 yen
the nearest bus stop / Takagamine Genko an mae

The entrance

The tour date ; October 3rd 2011
Tour  : Bamboo forest, Golden pavillion, Zuiho-in ( Daitokuji temple),     Kotoin ( Daitokuji temple), Genko-an

Tourists ; a man from Ireland

Pureland in Paradise

In some Japanese gardens, we can find something to be delicately devised. Let's think about the garden in Byodoin temple. As I talked before, the people in those days were eager to realize the pureland in Paradise here in Uji. That is why you can see phoenix hall in the west. When you see the hall from across the pond, the face of Amida buddha can be seen just through the round window of the hall. When you stand in the hall, look up the corner of the ceiling. The wavy light there is something like the one in the heaven. Yes. But how does it waver like that ?
Look at the left corner of the pond! It is just behind the edge of the hall. Did you notice that there is a little fountain at this point of the pond? Water springs little by little, which ruffles the water surface. The water surface reflects the sun light and it gives an irregular pattern of shimmering light to the ceiling and the wall. In the old days, they felt as if they were in Pureland in Paradise when they saw it.

To tell the truth, when I stood in the hall, the hall itself was actually very old and I couldn't feel I was in Pureland. But the time when it was built, the color of the building was so vivid and colorful that it was totally different from what it is today.

Amida buddha is said to come with an orchestra so that the dead won't have a fear at the moment of the death and take them to the heaven. The Amida buddha is right in the center of the hall.


Thinking of the people and the hall in the old days, it makes me a little romantic.

Date : Aug. 23rd
Tourists : a couple from Spain
Tour ;Yasaka pagoda, Kiyomizu temple, Sanneizaka, Nineizaka, Ishibeikouji (the old paths from the temple),tea ceremony in the temple, Sanjusangendo hall, Okonomiyaki lunch, Byodoin temple, Fushimi Inari shrine

Flea market and Kitano shrine

Do you like visiting a flea market? Looking around in the market and negociating the prices with the sellers are a lot of fun. In Kyoto we have two big flea markets every month. One is Ko-bo-san in Toji temple on the 21st, and the other is Tenjin-san on the 25th. On the 25th every month, the precinct and surrounding area of Kitano shrine is filled with so many open booths, selling food, old kimonos, cloth, antiques and so on.
The tours with tourists happened to be on the 25th. I decided to take them there.

Sugawarano Michizane is enshrined in Kitano shrine. He was a very talented man. He is said to have started writing poems at the age of 5, and writing Kanshi, or Chinese poem, when he was 11. He promoted so fast and gained the important position in the political world. However, due to his promt promotion, he was entrapped and exiled from Kyoto to Kyushu Island.
After his death, harsh disasters struck the capital. The rumor that it was steming from Michizane's sad destiny spread in the old city. The Emperor restored his status and built the shrine for him.
Since he was a man of wisdom, the people who wish an academic achievement often visit here and pray for their success in their learning or examinations.

In Fukuoka city( in Kyushu lsland), we have Dazaifu Tenmangu, another shrinie related to Michizane. We can see a plum tree in both temples. The legend says that the plum tree in Kyoto missed Michizane so badly and flew to Dazaifu in a night.

Cows is regarded as a messenger of the God in this shrine. Many people touch the stone cows here wishing for a good luck and their health.


Date : July 25th
Tourist ; a woman from France
Tour : Nijo castle, Fleamarket in Kitano shrine, Golden pavillion, Bamboo forest

Photo ; in Nijo castle





Date ; August 25th
Tour ; Fleamarket in Kitano Shrine, Orinasu-kan( nishijin texile factory), Golden pavillion

Photo ; in noodle restaurant in Machiya
They tried on the kimonos they bought in the market after lunch.

Mourning the dead ( Adashino nenbutsu-dera)

People in the old days believed the paradise in Pureland was located in the west. We can find the fact in Byodoin temple in Uji because you will see the phoenix hall to the west when you see it across from the front pond. The west is the direction where the sun sets.
Adashino Nenbutsu dera( temple) is in the west of Kyoto, the end of Arashiyama area. In its name of Adashino, a kanji letter meaning "alchemize" is used. That is the place where "Life" alchemizes into "Death" and then the dead soul is reincarnated and has a new life. In the old time, people left the dead body there. I don't know why it was there. But I believe that is why it is the west and that they hoped to let the souls go to the pureland from the nearest place. ( This is just an interpretation of mine..)


A great monk, Kukai, buried the bodies and the remains there, held a service for the departed souls and prayed for them. People made and brought small stone statues and stone towers. Those in Adashino Nenbutsu dera are the ones for the dead who departed to another world in those days.
When you visit there, you will feel something solemn and specifically mysterious.
On August 22nd night, the temple holds an event for prayers. People come there and light candles and pray for the dead.

There is another stone Jizou. This is for unborn babies. When I visited there, I lit a candle and prayed for them.

This time, I visited this temple with a woman from Rumania. We talked a lot about this temple and how death is interpreted in Buddhism. It was a very hot day in summer. But walking from Arashiyama river side to this temple through the countryside gave us something valuable in our minds.
If you are interested in an insight of religion and local culture, visiting here will let you feel something unexpected.



Tour date ; July 22nd
Tour : Golden pavillion, Adashino nenbutu dera, Bamboo forrest, Sanjusangendo hall
Tourist ; a woman from Rumania

Adashino nenbutsu dera 9AM -4PM ( -3:30PM in winter)
Admission 500 yen
Access 30min walk from Arashiyama Randen station
40min ride Kyoto bus ( not city bus ) from JR Kyoto station
(the nearest bus stop - Toriimoto )

Comparison between Golden and Silver pavillion

All visitors to Kyoto don't miss seeing the Golden Pavillion, do they? In fact, it is one of the Must-sees of Japan. When you step into the precinct and the shining golden pavillion comes into sight, you will probably say something exclamatory. In addition, the so-called mirror pond in front of it makes this pavillion more impressive by reflecting the pavillion on its water surface as if it were a mirror. Yes, it is surely the one sight you can't skip on your tour.

The time when the Golden pavillion was founded was when Kitayama culture was at its best. Kitayama culture is a fusion of aristractic culture and samurai culture. The temple represents Kitayama culture. The pavillion was made with those characteristics on each floor; the first floor of the pavillion is in so-called Shinden-zukuri, or Aristocratic style. The second floor is in so-called Buke-zukuri, or Samurai style. The third has a religious atmosphere of Zen.

On the other side of the city, you can also enjoy the other pavillion, the Silver pavillion. Whether the pavillion was coated with silver at the beginning or not is unknown, or has many views.
Putting that aside, the Silver pavillion has a different atmosphere. The founder of this temple, the grandson of the founder of Golden pavillion, was a person of taste or a person of culture. He founded the pavillion based on his grandfather's work. However, he loved an authentic beauty known as "Wabi" and "Sabi" originated in Zen spirit, the main idea of which is simplicity. Please touch the beauty coming from an inner part of your heart when you are in Kyoto.
When you get into the Ginkakuji, you will first see the mound of white sand called Kogetsudai, The literal meaning is the place toward the moon. The effect of this white sand is to make the surroundings brighter by reflecting the moon light. This neatly shaped sand mound will surely impress you
There is one more thing I want to mention about here. That is moss!
The founder, the 8th shogun of Ashikaga shogunate, liked Saihoji temple which is known as a moss temple. One half of the garden was covered with this green moss. I recommend you to visit here in May or Jun while its green is vivid to your eyes. This temple doesn't show you a gorgeous aspect but I am sure you will understand the beauty of our culture while visiting here.



I visited both temples with an Australian couple. After visiting both temples, I asked which they preferred. They said that they understood each temple's authentic beauty. Their answer was that the two had their own individual beauty and that both were nice in their own special way.
That is probably the right answer!

Date : July 20th

Tourists : a couple from Australia

Tour : Ryoanji rock garden, Kinkakuji, Ginkakuji, Phylosophy path, Nanzenji temple, Heian shrine ( by themselves)